Tuesday, 10 January 2017

How To: Ruffled Cuffs Sleeve Detail

 photo RuffledSleeveDetail3_zps17ufolwd.jpg
Anyone who's been here over the past year knows I've gradually developed a moderate addiction to ruffles. Here's how to create a subtle little ruffle detail at the cuff of a shirt or dress - and the same logic applies to creating a popped ruffle collar (I'll go into that in the full tutorial for this dress).

I. Here's my cut sleeve pieces for reference. I did cropped length sleeves, hence the shorter length. I also wanted my sleeves to be looser around the wrist, with enough length there for a pleat, hence more width there too.
 photo 1 Cut sleeves_zpsfgx2cf2a.jpg
II. And here the pieces I cut for the cuffs and ruffles. Note again that I made my cuffs loose. For the fullness of ruffle you see in the ready cuff, the long strip of fabric for the ruffle needs to be about 2.3-2.5 times as long as the cuff.
 photo 2 Ruffle pieces_zpsqgu7hidq.jpg
III. To prep the ruffles, I did a very narrow double-fold on one long edge..
 photo 3 Ruffle hemmed_zpsebg922wb.jpg
.. And added a basting stitch on the other long edge, pulling the bobbin thread to gather the ruffle so it was 1 cm shorter than the cuff length (aka cuff length minus 0.5 cm seam allowances).
 photo 4 Ruffle pulled_zpsyi5sjvvd.jpg
IV. Then pinned the gathered ruffle to one cuff piece, right side facing right side..
 photo 5 Ruffle pinned_zpsxn2s3oqn.jpg
.. And added the other cuff piece on the other side with the ruffle in between, and sewed the 3 layers together.
 photo 6 Ruffle in between_zps6ptdbzhe.jpg
V. After pressing, I had this.
 photo 7 Sewed_zpsavymbg9h.jpg
VI. Next I pressed a 0.5 cm fold at the raw edges, and closed the cuff into a loop. I totally forgot to take a pic of that step, but what I did was took the spot I'm holding in the pic below, aligned that short edge with the same short edge at the other end of the ruffle, right sides facing, and sewed those together (making sure the ruffle was pointing the other way, not to stitch over it). Then repeated the same with the other side of the cuff, again pushing the ruffle in between out of the way.
 photo 8 Pressed_zpsvh2nz9bl.jpg
Which left me with a completed cuff.
 photo 9 Closed_zpsbujpum7n.jpg
VII. To get ready to attach my cuffs, I set the sleeves in place in my top, and sewed the sleeve underseams.
 photo 10 Sleeve set_zpshk5m43pj.jpg
VIII. To attach the cuff to the sleeve, I opened it up and pinned to the sleeve like this. I also did a pleat on the sleeve, so before pinning the cuff in place I folded my pleat and sewed that in place with a few stitches.
 photo 11 Ruffle pinned to sleeve_zpswppf2knr.jpg
Making sure the right side of the ruffle was against the right side of the sleeve. Then sewed around along the fold line.
 photo 11.1 Ruffle in between_zpsohbmrap8.jpg
IX. After that, flipped the cuff over the seam, and hand-stitched the loose end on the reverse.
 photo 12 Reverse_zpstnuzo7v9.jpg
Ready! Full dress tutorial coming soon..
 photo RuffledSleeveDetail1_zps2totup06.jpg
xo,

Julia

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